Riding the high passes: Ladakh and Spiti

Altitude on a motorcycle

Riders can climb 2,000 m in a day, much faster than any trekker. You'll cross passes above 5,000 m and sleep above 3,500 m. Altitude sickness is the most common reason ride plans fall apart.

• Follow the sleeping-height rules: no more than 300 to 500 m higher each night above 3,000 m where the route allows, and rest days in Leh or Kaza.
• Flying into Leh and riding out? Rest 48 hours first.
• Don't linger on the high passes. Take the photo and drop down.
• Headache, nausea or confusion on the bike are reasons to stop and descend, not push on. See Altitude sickness.

Fuel and the route

On the Manali to Leh highway, Tandi has the last fuel station before Leh, roughly 365 km away. Carry jerry cans for the extra range, or fill them up where your support vehicle does.

• Ride in daylight only. Start early to beat afternoon water levels and wind.
• Expect slush, gravel and broken stretches near the passes even on "good" years.
• Mobile signal is rare between towns. Carry a paper map and offline maps on your phone.

Water crossings

Snowmelt streams cross the road in many places and rise through the day. Some, like the stretches near Pagal Nala on the Leh route, are notorious.

1. 1

   Cross early in the day when the water is lowest.

2. 2

   Walk it first if you can't see the bottom, or watch someone else cross.

3. 3

   Stand on the pegs, first gear, steady throttle. Look at where you want to go, not at the water.

4. 4

   Don't stop or change gear mid-stream.

5. 5

   Ride with others and cross one at a time.

Bike prep and spares

• Full service before you leave: brakes, chain, tyres, air filter and clutch.
• Spares: front and rear tubes, clutch and accelerator cables, spark plug, fuses, chain link, puncture kit with a pump.
• Tools for the above, and know how to use them.
• Bungees and waterproof bags; everything gets wet at some point.
• Riding gear: full-face helmet, armoured jacket, gloves, boots and rain gear. It's cold above 4,000 m even in July.

Permits and papers

Carry your licence, the bike's registration, insurance and pollution certificate, plus the rental agreement for a hired bike. Rohtang Pass needs an online vehicle permit (the Atal Tunnel route avoids it). Some areas in Ladakh near the borders need permits; see Permits and documents.

Cycling the same roads

Everything above applies, slower. Cyclists acclimatise better because the climbs are gradual, but face long days, cold descents and strong afternoon headwinds. Carry more water than you think, a windproof for every descent, and plan on a support vehicle for the longest stretches.